A Grand Introduction to Istanbul - Thanks Muammer!

Thursday, May 5

Michael and I have had a wonderful 4 hour introduction to Istanbul today.  We arrived at 6:15 – two hours later than expected – after a stunning flight approach over the city that allowed us views of the Black Sea, the Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara, new Istanbul, old Istanbul and Asian Istanbul.  The city views kept appearing between the low clouds, as rain has been threatening off and on.  We had an easy time through passport control and customs and picked up our luggage and met Muammer Kaya at the airport.

Muammer is a lovely family friend that we have met through Aaron and Sara and Oscar and Karen Seibel. He lives in Istanbul with his wife and two 18 mo old twin sons.  In addition to being a wonderful raconteur and incredibly knowledgeable about the history and culture of the country, he runs MK Travel Agency and Medical Tourism Services, so his experience in helping us see this wonderful city is invaluable.

Muammer drove us to the old city via Raf Orbay Cad and Kennedy Cad, past Atakoy and Bakirkoy, skirting the shores of the Sea of Marmara.  We passed some beautiful gated communities and parks and followed the old city walls of Constantinople until we arrived in Sultanahmet.  We passed the ruined walls of the Bucoleon Palace – the great palace of the Byzantine emperors - as we proceeded to Kucuk Ayasofya Cad, the street where the MK Travel Agency is located.  It’s a beautiful and quiet area, filled with artisan shops, restaurants and small private hotels.  The area is impressively dominated by the Kucuk Ayasofya Camii – the Little Haghia Sophia Mosque.  Also known as Saints Sergius and Bacchus’s Church, it was built in 527 by emperor Justinian (of Ravenna fame) – and has withstood the earthquakes and ravages of time.  It has many of the same features as San Vitale in Ravenna – the octagonal shape with Byzantine rounded arches;  flat, long bricks on the exterior, three levels of arcaded arches on the interior with historic marble pillars and intricately carved capitals.  It’s been a functioning mosque since the late 1400’s, with a mirhab niche and graceful calligraphic decorations.  The interior has beautiful carpeting on the floor, and there is a heated section near the mirhab.  Muammer had kindly explained many aspects of Islamic worship to us, as our knowledge is somewhat spotty.  There is a carved frieze on the interior that circles the base of the dome, with old Greek inscriptions about  the church founders – Sergius and Bacchus were Roman centurions who saved Justinian’s life and were later martyred. 

Next to the Little Haghia Sophia is a madrasa - a  24  room square building with an arcaded courtyard.  The madrasa was restored by a foundation and now supports Turkish handcraft production and teaching - and craftsmen can be seen working during the day.  We stopped for a cup of tea within the courtyard of the madrasa – a welcome-to-Istanbul moment that was very special.  From there, we traveled up the street a bit, stopping to meet colleagues of Muammer’s along the way.  We met Hattak Kamil Nazik, a world renowned calligrapher, in his small shop.  His work is so beautiful and elegant.  Muammer says when he’s in town (and not traveling the world, related to the demand for his skills), he teaches students in his small storefront.  I hope we might return later in the week for a better look.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKxB0FXKN90

We went to the Sultan Kosesi Restaurant for dinner – and met Seyfettin Gokce, the current owner. http://www.sultankosesi.com Muammer was a partner in developing the restaurant, but cut back after the birth of his boys.  We had a tour of the kitchen – and saw their special pizza oven, as well as a charcoal burning oven.  Muammer asked them to bring us a number of special dishes.  We started with fresh squeezed orange and pomegranate juice and proceeded to a bowl of tasty lentil soup garnished with lemon.  A pillow pita was served with a number of cold meze, two types of pizza/flat breads, fresh from the oven – one with a thin tomato and meat sauce (no cheese) and one with cheese.  We had a chopped salad with tomatoes, cracked wheat, onions, cucumbers, and walnuts.  The kebab plate was delicious – but the highlight was a sizzling from the oven imam bayildi – (“the imam fainted”) – so rich and creamy with whole cooked eggplants, tomatoes, onions, olive oils, spices, cooked over a wood charcoal fire to give it flavor, with tender chunks of meat swimming in the dish.  Just amazing!

By now it was getting close to 10 PM – time for a Turkish coffee, complete with rosewater flavored Turkish delight to sweeten the taste – and to proceed to our hotel, the Sirkeci Mansion Hotel, situated adjacent to the gardens of the Topkapi Palace.  Muammer brought us to the door of the hotel, after seeing the Hippodrome, Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia and Egyptian obelisk along the way.

We have a lovely, large room with a sitting area and a small kitchen.  We unpacked and flopped into bed, resting up for our first full day of touring tomorrow.  What a spectacular start to our visit to Turkey.  Thanks Muammer!

http://sirkecimansion.com

Our first views of the ancient city walls of Constantinople

The remains of the Bucoleon Palace - from Byzantium princes around the 5th century

Muammer Kaya and Michael in front of his MK Travel Agency

The lovely "Little Hagia Sophia" - also known as Church of SS Sergius and Bacchus

Build in the 5th Century by Emperor Justinian - many similarities to San Vitale in Ravenna

Dome of the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque

Interior arches and calligraphy over the mirhab niche

Beautifully carved capitals and lintels, and ancient green (and red) marble columns.

Interior courtyard of the Huseyin Aga Madrasa adjacent to the Little  Hagia Sophia Mosque

External office in the courtyard of the madrasa

Stone and woodblock carving for printing decorative fabrics

The madrasa is teaching traditional Turkish handicrafts, and then selling the work of the artisans (fabric prints, here)

A restful stop for a welcome-to-Istanbul tea with Muammer

A welcome cup of tea - so pretty

The workshop of Hattak Kamil Nazik, calligraphic artist who's work is in demand throughout the world

One of his beautiful works that incorporates the Mevlevi whirling prayer meditation.

Visiting the Sultan Kosesi Restaurant with a view of the Blue Mosque at day's end.

Lovely interior decor at the Sultan Kosesi Restaurant

A very tasty mixed kebab platter - and in the upper left corner, the incomparable Imam bayildi

A Turkish coffee, with water and Turkish delight to finish our delicious meal

Our waiter Mohammed made me a paper napkin rose

Treats were waiting for us when we finally checked into our room at the Sirkeci Mansion Hotel