Toledo's Cathedral - filled with statues, gold and El Grecos

The Cathedral Primada Santa Maria del Toledo

The Cathedral is located at the Plaza del Ayuntamiento

 

Monday,  November 4, 2019         Toledo

The Plaza del Ayuntamiento is the square where Toledo’s Cathedral meets its town hall (El Ayuntamiento de Toledo) and the Archbishop’s palace (El Palacio Arzobispal de Toledo). We toured the cathedral – the Catedral Primada Santa Maria de Toledo  – built in the 13th century and considered one of the best examples of High Gothic architecture in Spain. Building began in 1226 under Ferdinand III and the last vault of the central nave was enclosed in 1493. It was modeled after France’s Bourges Cathedral. It is said that it’s extensive size, with five (!) naves was designed, in part to completely cover all of the sacred space of the former mosque on the site. In the center of the Cathedral is the majestic altarpiece made of polychrome and golden wood, constructed during 1498-1504.

The Cathedral is composed of 5 main naves with 88 pillars and 72 vaults

The main nave culminates in the High Altar - a tour de force of polychrome statues depicting biblical scenes

The Cathedral is dedicated to Virgin Mary and her Ascension to the heavens. The site was situated over the foundations of the Visigoth cathedral from the sixth century, which had been used as a mosque. Constructed in a Gothic style with a French influence, it measures 120 m long by 60 m wide and contains 5 naves supported by 88 pillars and 72 vaults. The side naves extend behind the main chapel surrounding the presbytery.  This creates an apse aisle with a double semicircular corridor. This area contains the famous 'transparente' window over the apse.  

The apse and the main altar

Details of the high altar - exquisitely carved wood decorated with gilding and polychrome

In front of the main altar is an amazing two story beautiful choir, surrounded by wooden chairs with carvings done in the late 1400’s that depict the story of Granada’s conquest. 

Two stories of elaborately carved seats line the choir underneath two Spanish style pipe organs

Animal figures and gargoyles figure prominently

Every surface is carved, including the backs of the seats and the arm and foot rests

At the end of the sixteenth century the sacristy was built. In its vault is a  fresco of the Holy Virgin. The walls are white, with an open clean look to the space. The entire room serves as an art gallery with paintings from many famous artists: El Greco, Caravaggio, Tiziano, Van Dyck, Tristán,  and Goya. Next, we toured the Chapter house, covered with paintings of the various archbishops of Toledo, underneath a beautiful golden and polychrome coffered ceiling.

The art collection of the sacristy includes many El Greco paintings

Goya (above), Caravaggio and others are represented 

The Chapter House, with its gold and polychrome coffered ceiling, is completely decorated with fresco paintings

The parade of old Archbishops covering all 4 walls, bedecked in gold, jewels, miters, and rings is a bit much

Another chapel contains a large gold and jewel encrusted monstrance, made by Enrique de Arfe in 1515-1523. Legend says the piece was gilded with the first gold that came from America.  One does understand that all this wealth – in the immediate decades that follow 1492- is a direct result of the plundering of the American continent by the European colonialists.

Larger than life gold monstrance built from gold and silver from the Americas

Four full size silver angels, garbed in gold, hold up the golden monstrance

A unique aspect of the cathedral is the Transparente, considered to be the pinnacle art work of the Spanish Baroque. In the circular aisles behind the main alter, a large marble altarpiece is illuminated by an oval window that lets in light from upper window. The window is surrounded by archangels, and many sculptures illuminate the space.  

Whew! The riches, artwork, sacred images and use of space are hard to completely absorb on one visit.

A baroque window, the Transparente, lets natural light into the vaults behind the main altar apse