Saturday, February 24, 2018

A view of Mt. Everest on the way to Bhutan

Amazing view of Mt. Everest - the dark triangle on the left, trailing clouds from it's peak



Wednesday, February 21                                             Nepal to Bhutan

We arrived at the Kathmandu airport by 9:45 or so.  I talked with our guide, Sanjeeb, on the bus; he was very worried that we not leave with a negative impression of Nepal, with all the pollution and congestion going on.  He is hopeful that their recent elections have brought in some good government officials and that things are starting to turn around with the economy.  I think he was grateful when I expressed how much I enjoyed our very short 18 hours here in his complex, beautiful and interesting country.

Going through check in and passport control was a bit crazy – long lines, male and females separated with pat-downs on everyone.  Took at least an hour for all to make it through and be in the gate waiting area.  We laughed, as they had us take a bus to a privately chartered Bhutanese aircraft that was setting on the tarmac only 50 yards or so away.  I was pleased to be on the airplane early enough to get seats on the left side of the plane, to be able to see Mt. Everest and the other peaks of the Himalayas.

From the left: Nuptse (7861m), Everest (black triangle-8848m), Lhotse (8516m, 4th tallest) and to the R, Mt.Makalu (8475m - 5th tallest)




It turns out today is the birthday of the King of Bhutan – he’s 37 years old today.  The cabin crew had a cake for us to celebrate. Everyone in Bhutan has three days off to celebrate/observe his birthday.  They also raffled off 4 items as gifts at the end of the flight – a bottle of wine, a fan made with peacock feathers.  The approach to land at Paro (the only international airport in Bhutan and one of only 3 with an asphalt tarmac) is quite tricky, as it's a narrow valley between steep mountains with a dog leg air space approach.  I read that only a dozen or so pilots are approved for landing at that airport..

Flight path into the Paro Valley - a tricky dog leg and a deep descent

Bhutan Airlines celebrated the King's 37th birthday today with cake for all on the plane

You can see Paro's Dzong and watchtower from the airport


The airport in Bhutan is beautiful – just underwent renovation.  We were the only ones in the check in hall.  Our group is divided into two today, as each half is staying at a different hotel.  

Arrival gate at airport

The King, Her Royal Highness and the Crown Prince all greet you when you arrive



The customs arrival hall - beautifully decorated

The King and his beautiful family greet you inside as well

Our group is staying  at the Zhiwa Ling Hotel, about a 30 minute ride to the west of town.  Our local guide is Dorji – and he told us many interesting thing about Bhutan as we drove on the road along the river to reach our hotel.

We were greeted with singing and dancing upon arrival, hot apple cider and a "picnic" lunch outdoors, accompanied by singing, dancing and archery demonstrations (the national sport).

Welcoming reception at the hotel


Welcome dance at the entrance of our hotel


Our friend Susie is next to receive a prayer scarf and be welcomed to the hotel

Serving hot cider as we arrive
At arrival, after our greeting by the singers and dancers, we received our 3rd white scarf and our room assignments.  We’re in a cottage near the river, room 26.  We had hot apple cider while admiring the wooden carvings and paintings of the lobby building.  Our room is beautiful – on the 3rd floor and it’s a walk up – you can really feel the altitude at 7500 feet when we climb.  The rooms have heated wooden floors and beamed ceilings, with an outdoor balcony overlooking the river and the foothills that house Taksang Monastery.  We'll be grateful for the heated floors because at night it will get below freezing.


The day is bright and sunny and we gathered outside under tents for a picnic and outdoor performance.  Four men and four women dancers performed; mostly circular dancing and occasional pairing between the men and the women; an animal dance with large head masks, and an archery demonstration.  Archery is the national sport and they learn it while still children.  They play on a course that is 140 meters long!  The food was a buffet and quite good – pumpkin soup; potato, slaw and macaroni salads (all very upscale); roast pork; a chili chutney that is a local Bhutanese specialty; a lean  ground beef meatball which contained a hardboiled egg.  There was an excellent carrot cake for dessert – prepared with more carrots and less batter than we use, and a white sauce rather than a cream cheese frosting.
A beautiful, sunny day - perfect for an outdoor picnic

Lovely linens, china and silver - not quite like the "picnic" I was imagining

The musicians for the dances - the middle instrument is played like a hammer dulcimer.


Animal dancers



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