The largest Gothic Cathedral in the World - Seville

The Door of the Conception, as seen from the Patio of the Oranges

Wednesday, October 30, 2019               Seville

After lunch, we used an audio guide to tour the Cathedral. Also known as the 
Cathedral of St. Mary of the See, it is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world 
and the third largest Christian church after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s 
in London. After the Christian conquest of the city, on November 23, 1248, 
the Almohad Mosque, was converted into the cathedral of the archdiocese 
of the Kingdom of Seville.

The construction changed the liturgical orientation of the mosque, which was 
towards the south, to the Christian orientation toward the east, placing the Main Chapel on the east side.  With the passage of time, the walls, facades and pillars were covered with altarpieces and paintings. At the end of the fourteenth century, the mosque was badly damaged, at risk of ruin. It was decided to demolish the Almohad building to build a Christian cathedral.  Its construction was carried out in several phases over more than 500 years, resulting in a mixture of several architectural styles that provide its special beauty.

The South Facade, built in the first phase in the 1400 and 1500's with the Door of the Prince

Oriented toward the Palace, this was the entrance used by royalty

Beautifully carved details, including these 2 cute dragons

The cathedral's construction lasted over a century, from 1401 to 1506. It is said that when the plans were drawn up, church elders stated, "Hagamos una iglesia tan hermosa y tan grandiosa que los que la vieren labrada nos tengan por locos." (Let us build a church so beautiful and so magnificent that those who see it finished will think we are mad).

The basilica occupies the site of the great Aljama mosque, built in the late 
12th century by the Almohads, the ruling Moorish dynasty.  The only remaining 
parts of the mosque are the Patio de Naranjas, the Puerta del Perdon and 
the Giralda (formerly the minaret, now the bell tower).

There are 5 naves inside the Cathedral and 80 side chapels

There are 32 freestanding columns and 28 attaches ones

The five naves reach more than 125 feet high with 68 ribbed vaults

The cathedral’s central nave rises to an awe-inspiring 42 meters and even 
the 80 side chapels each seem tall enough to contain an ordinary church. The total area covers 11,520 square meters and according to some, new calculations, based on cubic measurements, have now pushed it in front of St Peter's in Rome as the largest church in the world. But this is still a subject for debate, and many claim it is still the third-largest in the world.

All successive ages have left monuments of their own wealth and style, but these have been restricted to the two rows of side chapels. In the main body of the cathedral only the great box-like structure of the coro (choir) stands out, filling the central portion of the nave.

Two beautiful organs flank each side of the choir

The organs are protected by wooden carpentry constructed and carved in the 1700's.

The choir, designed in 1478, has a lower section of 50 seats and an upper section of an additional 67 seats

One of the main attractions of the cathedral for visitors is the tomb of 
Christopher Columbus, housing the remains of the great explorer who died
in poverty in Valladolid. The tomb itself is more recent, from the 1892, with 
four bearers presenting the kingdoms of Castile, Leon, Aragon and Navarra. 
Other cities claim to hold the remains of Cristobal Colon, as he is known in 
Spanish - Havana, Cuba, and Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic - 
but recent DNA tests proved beyond doubt that this tomb does hold Columbus. 

Tomb of Christopher Columbus

The bearers represent 4 kingdoms of Spain: Navarra, Aragon, Castile and Leon

The central, main nave (one of 5!) opens onto the Capilla Mayor (Great Chapel), dominated by a vast Gothic altar piece comprised of 45 carved scenes from the life of Christ, as well as Santa Maria de la Sede, the cathedral's patron saint. The lifetime's work of a single craftsman, Pierre Dancart, this is the ultimate masterpiece of the cathedral - the largest and richest altarpiece in the world and one of the finest examples of Gothic woodcarving anywhere. Staggering amounts of gold were involved.

The railing in front of the main alter was constructed between 1518 and 1529

The construction of the main alter began in 1482 - with 7 vertical sectors and 4 rows

In the center, in silver, is the Virgin of the See, donated by Alfonso X in the 1200s

There are many impressive works of art in the 80 side chapels of the Cathedral. For example, Saints Justa and Rufina - sisters and natives of Seville who lived in the Triana area in the late 200's, are featured prominently. They refused to renounce their faith and are depicted in stained glass, poly chrome wooden carvings and a beautiful painting by Goya from 1817.

Saints Justa and Rufina with the Giralda of Seville - 1686

Poly chrome wood carvings of the sister saints

Goya's 1817 painting of the sisters, Saints Justa and Rufina, depicting ways they were tortured

The Guardian Angel, a 1655 painting by Bartolme Murillo

A gold and jewel encrusted monstrance in the treasury

Emeralds, sapphires, diamonds and pearls

Seville was the point of embarkment and return from the New World - and became rich with silver and gold

After about an hour walking around with the audio guide, it was time to take a break and return to the outside. To exit, you walk through the large courtyard of the Patio de los Naranjos. This beautiful green space dates back to Moorish times when worshipers would wash their hands and feet in the fountains here - under the orange trees - before their five daily prayer sessions. As you leave the Patio, you pass through the Puerta del Perdon (Gate of Forgiveness), a stucco engraved horse-shoe shaped masterpiece, also dating from the original Almohad mosque.

We headed back to the meeting place by Las Setas (the Mushrooms) to catch our bus at 3 PM to head back to our parador in time for a beautiful sunset.

The exit from the Cathedral through the Door of the Conception and the Patio of the Oranges

The view of the Giralda and the Door of Forgiveness from the Patio de los Naranjos