Moreska - the Korculan Sword Dance to Rescue a Damsel

The Revelin Tower - entrance into the city walls of Korcula's old town

Tuesday, July 5 - Trip Day 6


Our formal tour of medieval Korcula was completed by about 5 PM and we stopped near the Revelin Tower for a break with Fanta and ice cream.  We had one more surprise for this very full day.  We were going to watch a folkloric performance of the Moreska - a traditional sword dance performced in Korcula for centuries.

As we had about half an hour before the performance started, I returned to the old town through the main entrance gate - the Revelin Tower - to buy some souvenirs.  Michael was thrilled when I returned with some enameled Christmas decorations, a guide book and a deck of playing cards.

The Revelin gate, adorned with the symbol of the Venetian Republic, was built in the 13th century.  The stone stairway was added in 1868, to replace an older version.  Prior, there was a moat around the city walls on the land side, with a drawbridge to reach the Revelin Tower.

Once surrounded by a moat, these stairs were added in 1868

The lion of St. Mark, symbol of Venice, guards the tower gate

Pretty courtyard to the west of the Revelin Tower - through here to our Moreska performance

View from the top of the Revelin Tower gate

Courtyard adjacent to the Revelin Tower and gate, where the Moreska performance occurred

Korcula's Moreska - a ritual battle in the form of a sword dance

The Moreska is a ritualized and stylized fight between two armies, staged as a dance of sword combat.  Performed throughout the Mediterranean in Renaissance times, it is documented in Korcula as early as the 17th century.  Accompanied by live music, this Korculan troop has traveled across Europe showcasing their performances.

The plot pits the White King vs the Black King, in a contest to win the Muslim maiden that the Black King has kidnapped from the White King.  Osman wins over Moro in the end, and frees Bula, who eagerly returns to his waiting arms.

Osman (White King in red) and Moro (Black King) in front of their armies

Bula (damsel) tried to stop the fighting between Osman and Moro

It was fun to watch, especially the sword dancing - even if terribly stereotyped, from religious, gender and racial perspectives.  Disney should make a movie, don't you think?  (Ironic kidding, of course)

Small Governor's Tower and oleander

Outside the western city walls

The large Governor's Tower - now we've made the full circumference and are back at the port

Sea Clouds tender ready to bring us back to our ship - a little too rough for the Zodiacs

View of Korcula's St. Nicholas Monastery

The tender delivers us back to the gangway and up to our  awaiting dinner

Dinner on the ship tonight was on the lido deck, as fresco.  It was still very warm and Michael asked if we might eat our dinner in the dining room, which is air conditioned.  They kindly accommodated our request, and it was a nice respite from the heat of the afternoon.

We relaxed after dinner on deck and watched the sun dip behind the hills of the Peljesac peninsula.  We were heading out, under motor at midnight and tomorrow would return to Dubrovnik for a tour of the old town.

Michael's reading Richard Holbrooke's book on the Balkan War negotiations at Camp David

Pastel colors at dusk after sunset

The last tender trip returns from Korcula - its night lights shining on the horizon

And off we go - motoring to Dubrovnik overnight while we sleep peacefully