Monday, May 22, 2017

Final post - Tuscany & Umbria 2017 -- a few of my favorite memories


So thankful for such a wonderful vacation.  Posting a few final photos of some favorite times, now that we're back in Chicago and recovering from jet lag.



San Biagio in Montepulciano


Picnic dinner in Montepulciano

The evening sunlight at the Borgo Pignano was like a dreamscape



Great evenings on the terrace of the Borgo Pignano in Volterra

Every morning a caffe latte - love this one with the sun pattern in the schiuma (foam) to wake you up!

Drive by hill town photo - love taking car pics!

Doorway in Volterra



Courtyard scene in San Gimingano

Street life


 Vernaccia from San G. So cool and fresh, can just taste it now....

Montepulciano and vineyards

Serene Sant'Antimo

Prosecco celebration at the Villa Cicolina




The reason the town of Pienza smells like cheese

Monte Amiata, view from Pienza

Loved our al fresco lunches
Drawbridge to the Abbey

The Abbey at Monte Oliveta Maggiore - St. Benedict





Some Prosecco before olive oil tasting is always in order

OK, maybe too much Prosecco -- what else would make olive oil be that funny?

Crono Sagrantino in Montefalco

Arrivederci 

Sunday, May 21, 2017

On the road again...finding our way back home


Tuesday, May 16, 2017 – Time to go home
A Tuscan blend for our wine choice on United - san giovese and sagrantino

So, up at 6 :30 this morning with the sun shining and a beautiful blue sky.  We got dressed, finished the last of the packing and were on the road by 7:15.  The GPS said the trip would take 2 hours and we’d be at Fiumicino airport by 9:15.

We drove (with Mapquest’s help) through local roads in Umbria, past Spoleto and Terni and Narni and eventually made it to the A 1 to Roma.  The vistas of the mountains in Umbria are so spectacular.


Passing by Spoleto on our way to Rome

Rome's outer ring road - morning rush hour traffic

We arrived at the Grande Raccordo Anulare – the ring road around Rome – and hit the big morning traffic jam.  The merging traffic was chaotic – no one worries about the actual lanes, just pushes into any little open space possible.

We made it to Fiumicino by 9: 45 for our flight at 12:40.  It’s a good thing we were early, because we had a series of adventures.  Returning the care to Hertz was almost as fun as trying to pick up the car was.  It took a good 20 minutes before we were able to go to the terminal.  It’s a lo-o-o-ng walk to Terminal 3, and the United check in desk was at the very end.  While we were checking in, we asked the gate agent about Mike’s computer.  She called United lost and found, and they had no record of it.  Then she kindly called the airport’s lost and found office and they went to check.  Indeed, they had a silver Mac laptop that had been turned in on May 7!

A much larger than life Leonard DaVinci at Rome's FCO airport
Well, the Airport Lost and Found is in Terminal 1 – which meant a big hike to try to find the location.  Off we went, found Terminal 1 and then had a wild goose chase finding the actual office – everyone kept trying to  send us back to the United desk in Terminal 3.  We eventually found the place and I spied a guy going into the office through a side door and followed him in.  After some quick talking with the agents in the office, viola!, there was Mike’s computer – all labeled with the UA Flight, and date it was found, etc, just setting there for the last 9 days.  If we hadn’t gone to get it, I don’t think they ever would have returned it.

Boarding was a bit late – the flight was supposed to leave at 12:40, but left the gate about 15 minutes late, and we were off by 1 PM.  We are in great business class seats, 7 A & B – a little weird because they face backwards, but very comfortable.  They served our “dinner” as soon as we departed, which was a bit of a shame, because I’d just eaten in the lounge.  

Italy's coast - Fiumicino & Ostia bounded by the Tyrrhenian Sea

So, we were on the eastern and southern side of the plane.  On the way, we saw Corsica, the  Cannes coast of France, the Rhone valley, Rochefort and La Rochelle;  the St. Lawrence Seaway in Canada, Georgian Bay and Lake Huron, Port Huron and Lake St. Clair off in the distance.

Corsica - beaches and mountains
We stayed up the whole flight, Mike watched some movies and worked on his grant – seemingly very glad to have recovered his computer.  We landed, as planned at 4:15 at the international terminal at O’Hare, with a great view of downtown Chicago on our landing approach.  We were getting tired, as it was approaching midnight Italian time.  An hour long taxi ride from ORD to downtown and we were back home in our apartment.  Good to be in our own bed tonight!


Home at last.  Miserable traffic tonight - sometimes I wish I could just parachute out and be downtown at the apartment!

Saturday, May 20, 2017

Our last evening in Umbria - a lovely sunset and goodbye

Monday, May 15, 2017 - A visit to Castello di Portera


Sunset from the Castle - our Borgo is cluster of buildings in the bottom right

In the evening, our last in Italy, we decided to drive up to Castello di Portera to watch the sunset. The place is abandoned – it advertises a restaurant, but perhaps we’re ahead of the season?  We were by ourselves and it was simply lovely,  with expansive, majestic views across the whole valley.  The smells were especially fragrant – someone had just cut the meadow grass, and honeysuckle bushes were prolific.  We left after the sunset at around 8:30.



The Castle of the town of Poreta



The town of Poreta as seen from its castle


 









Gozzoli & Perugino - visiting the artists in Montefalco

Monday, May 15, 2017 – San Francesco museo - lots of treasures in a small package



From the main square, the Piazza del Comune,  of Montefalco, we headed down a street to Saint Francesco – the (decommissioned) cathedral and the museum.  The church is filled with interesting frescos – although they have had to do some repairs over the years because of the series of earthquake that have occurred in the region over the centuries.   In the apse is a grand series of frescos on the life of St. Francis as painted by Benozzo Gozzoli (Yes, of San Gimignano/St. Agostino fame).  He was in his late 20’s when he came here for this commission, having spent time apprenticing with Fra Angelico in Firenze and this was his first independent commission.  He also painted a chapel in the rear of the church, with the 4 Evangelists in the ceiling.  

Benozzo Gozzoli's frescos on the life of Saint Frances

Gozzoli's painting fill the apse of the church

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The frequent earthquakes in the region have taken their toll on the frescos in the ceiling

A view of the apse of the decommissioned church of San Francesco in Montefalco


In the rear, on the right side is a beautiful series of paintings by Perugino -  in the center, the Nativity with Mary and Joseph and at the top, a representation of God the Father.  His style is so delicate, and the colors of the faces, clothing and naturalistic landscape are remarkable.  We also toured the small museum associated with the church, and bought a guidebook.

Nativity by Perugino


On our way out of town, we stopped  at the convent of San Fortunato – we weren’t able to go in, as it’s under repair.  But we did see one of the Gozzoli frescos – under the shelter of the exterior cloister. 


 
Fresco in the cloister of the convent of San Fortunate

San Fortunato