A detour to Bevagna for cookies

Monday, May 15, 2017 – Finding a special pasticceria

Mike swam for an hour this morning at the pool in Spoleto; I sat in the car under a tree with the windows open and worked on photos and the trip report.  We left for Montefalco and I asked Mike if we could stop at Bevagna along the way.  Last night, I read something on the internet about the pasticceria in Bevagna, and it reminded me that we had visited the same place during our cooking trip with Marianne Esposito 15 years ago.  The bakery was owned by the family of the woman we had for a guide for 2 days – Analita.  Our group had a lesson on how to make Umbrian cookies and we got to sample the wares.  I remembered it fondly and thought it might be fun to try to find it again.

To get to Bevagna, we needed to drive up to Montefalco, and then continue back down another 10 KM or so. As we approached Montefalco, we  saw all the preparations for the Giro D’Italia– lots of pink balloons and decorations. Tomorrow they are holding the time trials – il Crono Sagrantino and they end in Montefalco.  Outside the city walls of Montefalco, we passed a large parking lot with big vans and mobile RVs, which were associated with the news media and support for the biking teams.  We saw some teams riding along the roads, with a car and/or van along with them (probably for protection from the crazy drivers!) 

The Piazza Silvestri, the church of San Silvestri (1195),  and the Bar that I stopped in to ask directions.

The other Romanesque church in Piazza Silvestri - the 12th Century church of San Michele Arcangelo

Il Palazzo dei Consoli and the fountain in the Piazza Silvestri

Roman column in the Piazza

We made it to Bevagna around 11:45 and parked outside of the town walls. Mike sent me in, as he wanted to just wait by the car.  I entered into the city where the main church and fountain were, at the Piazza Silvestri.  I stopped to ask direction at a Bar -  Sto cercando per una pasticceria particolare…etc, (I am feeling really good about my Italian on this trip!).  They told me where to find it – down the corso and on the left.  I was hurrying b/c I was worried that they might close at noon and it was about 5 to noon.

Amazing options for cookies at the Pasticceria Polticchiana

Found it!  It is the Pasticceria Polticchia. I waited for a good while for another old lady patron buying a number of items.  I was very excited to explain to the woman shop keeper how excited I was to return, it had been 15 years, I met the owners and their daughter, Analita, …  and she was totally blasé. Oh well, it made me happy to be there and to have found it.  I bought a small bag full of mixed cookies – for 7 euro, and headed back to meet Mike by the car.  (But first I stopped in the Bar off the square to tell the young woman who gave me directions that I found it – big smile!)

Bevagna is a most beautiful town - in the valley near the Clitunno River.  As you enter the city through the south gate, you cross a bridge over the river, and on the left is the "Accolta sul Fiume Clintunno"  a dam built to provide power for a grain mill.  There is also a large outdoor basin, once used for communal clothes washing. It was fun to see some of the sights that I had seen before, recognizing the buildings….  but time to move on to Montefalco.

A place to consider for lunch in the future.  The window sign says they are serving lamb testicles.

Piazza and buildings outside the south gate of the Bevagna - the back of San Silvestro and the Palazzi dei Consoli

The "Accolta sul Fiume Clitunno" - a dam built to power grain mills