Deruta - Umbria's ceramics capitol

Saturday, May 13 – Deruta - closed for lunch except Trattoria del Gusto

Ceramic plaque on the city walls of Deruta showing ceramics artisans

After we finished our drive around Lake Trasimeno, we headed toward Perugia to get on the autostrada for Deruta.  We’ve been on such small little roads, I forgot what it is like to drive near a big city – a bit mad!  We exited on the north end of Deruta and drove past lots of ceramic shops.  Mike was disappointed, as he didn’t go to Deruta when we were here last time, and didn’t expect there to be so many stores. 

We drove to the center, and found more free parking outside the city walls.  It was about noon when we arrived and the whole town was closed up!  We found one open ceramic shop – and bought a Christmas ornament.  I chatted in Italian with the nonna working in the shop for a while.  I asked if she could recommend a good restaurant for lunch.  She suggested the Trattoria del Guisto , just up the street past the piazza. 

One of the only open ceramics shops in Deruta -  we arrived during the lunch hour and the town was closed tight.

The Trattoria del Gusto was a wonderful place.  We chose to eat outdoors, under the sun umbrella in a small side street.  Once we arrived, another three tables filled up.  Mike ordered a mixed salad. I had ravioli with zucchini gialli (yellow squash), with pancetta and green courgette and also ordered a glass of house red wine.  We had coffee and complementary  limoncello to finish.  And while we sat and talked, our waitress brought a second shot of the limoncello!

Lunch fuori (outside) at the Trattoria del Gusto

Golden squash ravioli with strips of zucchini and pancetta - so delicious

Is there any better way to end the meal than sipping espresso and limoncello?

We walked around town a little and found a shop that looked like it could be the same person from whom I bought my original ceramic plates of the 4 seasons.  However, the shop was closed, so I took photos to see if I might find her on the internet.

We did walk past a pretty bell tower and the Deruta ceramics museum (also closed) and encountered a really nice shop along the way.  We went in and I ended up buying 2 items from Marcella, the artist.  We conducted a long conversation -- all in Italian! – about how much work it takes for the patterns I selected and how she determined the designs.  She has made a lovely black and white pattern that is both antique and modern – with red roses intersperse, based on a reported miracle with roses from Assisi. It was a pleasure to buy some of her beautiful pieces to take back home.

Deruta bell tower

Another bell tower - this one closed for repairs

Deruta's centro looks very medieval - lots of stone and towers

A beautiful black and white pattern with red accents at Marcella's shop

Marcella showed us the way the plates look after painting, before the glazes are kiln fired

Another intricate and colorful design - such fine work!