Thursday, May 18, 2017

A visit to St. Francis' hermitage - Eremo delle Carceri



Sunday, May 14 2017 – Happy Mother’s Day


The start of a beautiful morning at the Borgo

Happy Mother’s Day (which they don’t have in Italy, by the way).  Up at 8 AM and down to the ristorante for breakfast by 9.  A nice buffet – you could also get made to order items, like omelets.  I had the best caffe latte of the trip – in a tall glass with lots of warm milk.  I’m a little tired of the sweets, although they had a really good apple cake.  As we hadn’t yet decided where we wanted to go, we went out to sit in one of the outdoor patio tables outside of the restaurant.  Mike and I talked about options – maybe Spoleto, maybe Montefalco, maybe over the hills/mountains.  We were disappointed to learn that we couldn’t go see the Grande Piano near Norcia, as the roads were destroyed by the earthquake last fall, and most still haven’t been repaired.  One of the receptionists, Serena, is from Norcia and her family’s home was somewhat damaged as well.  She says the church was also damaged pretty badly and they are waiting for the resources from the Italian government to help repair it.  It reminds me of the earthquake that occurred in Assisi in 1997, the year before I visited with Suzanne.


Best caffe latte at this Borgo!

Lots of protein options for breakfast



We sat outside on the patio furniture for a while and talked with an interesting couple from New York – Beth is a lawyer for Doctor’s without Borders and Stan is a retired psychologist.  I had a second caffe latte while we chatted about travel, work and politics.

Many nice choices for relaxing outside before we motivated for our next drive


We decided to drive to the hermitage above the city of Assisi, on Mount Subasio, where St. Francis would go for retreats in the 13th Century.  We first drove up into the hills above our agriturismo for some “spelunking” with the car, as Mike wanted to see again the roads where he went running and hiking yesterday evening. 

The Castle of Poreta above our Borgo

We eventually made it to the autostada, heading north past the pretty town of Trevi, and then past Spello.  It was fun to see them again and brought back fond memories of our trip with Marianne Esposito and our cooking class 15 years ago.

The beautiful hill town of Trevi

We drove up the mountain to the area of the hermitage.  Because it’s Sunday, there were lots of people out hiking, walking and picnicking – plus some that seemed to be there for the religious aspects of the site.  The hermitage area is dotted with small caves – grottos- that were used by St. Frances, and other monks, such as Father Rufino, for solitude, prayer and meditation.  A number of small chapels and a sanctuary have been built into the mountainside and a few brothers of the Franciscan sect live there now.   

The Eremo delle Carceri  is above Assisi on Monte Subasio.  St. Francis would come to pray and contemplate regularly in between his travels.  The word carceri means "isolated places" (and it also means prisons).  It is said that Francis spoke to the birds here - and that they silenced their song when he was present so as not to disturb his prayers.  The views of the Umbrian valley from this isolated location are amazing.      

 
L'eremo delle carceri

You can walk the paths in the woods that were traversed by Saint Francis and the other hermits

One of the grottos used by Saints Francis, Rufino and others

Views of the Umbrian Valley from the hermitage

The church and small living quarters for the Franciscan monks


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