Monday, May 15, 2017

Pienza - the town smells like cheese

Friday, May 12 – Yes, the town of Pienza does smell like cheese!


Pecorino cheese in the shop windows of Pienza




After visiting il Tempio di San Biagio, we left the peaceful spot with the tall, stately cyprus trees and traveled the 15 KM to Pienza.  It is a very small town with one main street. 


Pienza is very pretty as you approach it from the country roads

You may enter Pienza from the Porta del Prato gate and walk the main street to reach the center

I have wanted to visit here, as I had read that it was one of the first UNESCO village sites.  In the late 1400's, Pope Pius II commissioned that his home village be rebuilt.  It was done within a span of about 6 years.  The architecture is unified, according to the plan of Pius II and his architect, Bernardo Rossellino – but it's almost too “cute” -  people call it a little jewel box, but I didn’t find it appealing as I had hoped.


The Cathedral of the Assumption, designed by Florentine architect Bernardo Rossellino

The main Piazza in front of the Cathedral
Adjacent to the Cathedral is the Palazzo Piccolomini, Pope Pius' summer palace.
The famous well in the Piazza, also designed by Rossellini

There is one medieval building that wasn’t raised for the new Renaissance reconstruction – a church for St. Francis, that was dark, stark and totally empty.  I lit candles there for Angie and Jean in honor of Mother's Day. The Pope’s church – next to his palace – is brighter and more decorative, but I didn't really find a sense of soul or holy purpose.

The Palazzo Pubblico, with a bell tower lower than that of the Cathedral

We decided to leave the town after about an hour.  We did enjoy buying various spice mixtures for pasta and egg dishes. Sayed was right – there were dozens of agri-produce stores, including many selling various cured meats and cheeses.  And the town did indeed smell strongly of pecorino cheese.   

We also stopped to have our first gelato of the trip.  Mike had pistachio and hazelnut and I had pistachio and pecorino cheese gelato. (Yep! It was pretty good.)


Fresh, semi aged and flavored pecorino cheese

Many flavors of honey from the hills of Tuscany - sunflower, woodland flowers, chestnut and others




The view from Pienza's belvedere looking to Mount Amita







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