Sunday, October 29, 2023

Tonight's Dinner - Sampling Some Famous Buenos Aires Dishes


Sampling the top Buenos Aires dining suggestions

Sunday, October 29 - Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires

A quick tour of our dinner tonight.  We ate casually at a local place - AIME lounge - filled with lots of families and chatting groups of people.  We wanted to try some of the foods that are special in Buenos Aires, so spend some time looking at the "Top 10 Things to Eat in Buenos Aires" lists that you can find on the internet.  We managed to have 4 of them in one sitting - not bad!.

We started with a glass of Argentinian Malbec - delicious, deep, dry, cherry.  Appetizers of empanadas, rabas (squid), provoleta (grilled and herbed cheese).  But the best for last - BBQ ribs - parrillada style.  THE BEST - including the complex, interesting mole style barbeque sauce.  The meat was carmelized and a bit crunchy on the outside, chewy and flavorful.  I might have to go back for more tomorrow night!!


So great to have a glass of Argentinian Malbec in Argentina!

Big smiles for the wine!


Provoleta - grilled and herbed cheese, served in a cast iron pan

Rabas, squid, in the style we call calamari

Deliciously seasoned beef empanadas

And the best for last - an amazing rack of BBQ ribs - yummy is an understatement.




Buenos Aires - Our Home for Two Nights


Yes, you can get Free Hugs in Buenos Aires!

Sunday, October 29 - Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires

Our hotel, the Alvear Icon Hotel, is located in the Puerto Madero section of Buenos Aires.  The Puerto Madero is a renovated dock area located near the Rio de la Plata.  It was orginally built up as the port and shipyard for Buenos Aires, according to a plan by a business merchant, Eduardo Madero, in 1882. In recent years, its old docks and warehouses have been gentrified and converted to restaurants, living spaces and upscale businesses.

Wikipedia says that for several decades, this district has held the title of being the "Most Expensive Neighborhood in Latin America", for having the highest prices per square meter.  It also is the location for the Alvear Tower, which is the tallest residential tower in Argentina.




The location of our hotel is in the Puerto Madero district, adjacent to the Rio de la Plata.

We arrived at the Hotel Alvear Icon around 10 AM.  For a small fee, we were able to check into our room early and to enjoy the hotel's copious Sunday breakfast buffet.  We did so, and promptly took our showers and a two hour nap.  Michael also took a swim in their beautiful pool on the 19th floor.

We enjoyed a walk around the neighborhood.  It's a very busy spring Sunday, with lots of families out enjoying the parks and cafes.  The temperature was comfortable at about 72 degrees - cooled by the rain, as yesterday it had been in the high 80's.  As you walk around, you can see the shipyard, warehouse and dock structures which have been incorporated into the local landscape.  

A pretty white bridge, the Puente de la Mujer, designed by Santiago Calatrava, was the focal point for much activity.  Groups of teens were riding bikes and skateboards, expertly performing many tricks and watching carefully to see who was watching them. (Ah, the Eternal Dance!)

There are many green spaces, and we sat on the park benches at the Parque Mujeres Argentinas. We watched the families play and the birds singing and enjoyed the early spring flowers that are blooming now. There is a large ecological nature reserve between this area and the actual Rio de la Plata.  Michael took a walk over there, but was shooed away by the police, as the beach and park were closing at 6 PM.

Typical architectural remnants around the canals in the Puerto Madero

The Puente de la Mujer (Women's Bridge) designed by Santiago Calatrava

A museum ship, built for the Argentine navy in the late 1800's.

One of many art murals

Love, to go along with the Free Hugs - a very genial city!

Tricks on display during this pleasant Spring Sunday afternoon



Spring has arrived

Expensive real estate locations here

Just a quick word about our hotel - it's really a lovely place, with all the services that you don't get in the mid-range US hotels ever since COVID.  Not only to they clean your room every day, but they still have turn-down service at night, robes and slippers and pretty bathrooms with nicely smelling products.  Sigh.  So nice.

We have a great view of the Rio de la Plata from our window on the 8th floor.  During the afternoon, we could see the ferries traveling across the river to Uruguay, and lots of sail boats out enjoying the brisk wind.  We also overlook the green space of the Ecological Park.  It's nice to have this as our home-away-from-home for two nights.



Love this marble bathroom!


View of the Rio de la Plata from our room

The Ecological Preserve




Getting to South America - Windows on the World

 



Sunrise over the Andes Mountains, Chile

Sunday, October 29, 2023   -   Traveling to South America

Saturday was a full day of travel.  We wanted to arrive on Sunday (October 29) to be a day early in case any flights got messed up, etc.  We travel enough that we've learned this little extra cushion just gives us "peace of mind" and keeps us relaxed and enjoying the journey.

We started at 8 AM in Michigan's UP and drove for six hours to get to Milwaukee.  Can't remember why we chose Milwaukee, other than it's not Chicago - we've been avoiding flying through O'Hare after our recent less than ideal experiences.  This trip, we flew on United - not my favorite for international travel, but the best option. Other than their food, it's a good choice.  The IAH to EZE flight crew was fantastic - so nice and helpful.  They even found me an extra pillow and offered me grilled cheese and tomato soup in the middle of the night when they noticed I was awake.  (No thanks, but appreciate the offer....)


Leaving Milwaukee, the beginning of our air travel

Great snacks on the Milwaukee to Houston flight - cheese and beef jerkey seems very Midwestern, doesn't it?

Arriving in Houston around 6:30 PM - nice sunset!

You could almost see downtown Houston through the clouds and haze.


We parked in Milwaukee - $14 a night - less than half what it costs at O'Hare.  I took a photo of our location in the parking garage.  It's hard enough to remember where you parked - much less after more than 3 weeks away!  The flight from Milwaukee to Houston is about 3 hours.  We went from 35 degrees and little snow flurries to 88 degrees as an evening temperature in Texas. Whew!

Not much of a layover, and we were boarding our flight to Buenos Aires.  I sat in seat 7A and Michael was behind me in 8A.  These configurations remind me of little mini-rooms - you're surrounded by a cocoon of plastic moulding on all sides.  I love to look out the window - fortunately, you don't disturb your neighbors too much if you don't lift the window cover too high.


I had to pop up and look over to talk to Michael, as I was sitting in front of him.

Michael looks ready to go, don't you think?

On our way! Heading out over Houston toward the Gulf of Mexico

Crossing over Galveston and the barrier islands


We departed at 8:15 PM and were scheduled to land in Buenos Aires at 8:15 AM.  It's actually a 10 hour flight, as there is a 2 hour time difference.  I'm always surprised when I look at the map of North and South America to see how far east the whole continent of South America is located, compared to the USA.

United served our meal quickly - and it took me almost no time to finish, as most of it was not really appealing.  I did enjoy the ice cream with dulce de leche for dessert - in part because my flight attendant put about six cherries on top!  I listened to podcasts and audiobooks until I was ready to sleep at 10:30 PM.  I listened to so many Antarctica disaster books this past month - the Endurance, The Race to the Pole about Scott and Amundson, Madhouse at the End of the Earth about the Belgica Expedition.  I decided to re-listen to Endurance tonight, just to keep me in the mood of what could go wrong on this trip!

I woke up about 4 AM (6 AM Argentine time).  I checked the actual time with the flight attendants.  (That's when they kindly offered me the midnight snack of grilled cheese and tomato soup!).  I worked on photos and listened to podcasts until it was time for breakfast.  I enjoyed watching the sunrise - first, just streaks of orange in the sky, with a large planet shining on the eastern horizon - maybe Venus?  Then, as the sun started to peek up further, you could see the peaks of the Andes Mountains below.  Spectacular, and so glad I was awake for it.



First light over South America - is that Venus up above?

Interesting flight plan - no crossing over Venzuela, Equador or Peru - only Panama and Chile

Sunrise over the Andes Mountains



We landed, as promised, at about 8:15, but in a pouring rainstorm, with pretty tough air turbulence for the final 20 minutes.  Good thing Captain Wendy was up to the task and provided us with a smooth landing (Go Girl!).  We skedaddled quickly through immigration and passport control (this isn't Chicago, after all!) and picked up our luggage about 30 minutes later. 

Nat Geo had arranged a transfer from the airport to our hotel, so we were quickly on our way.  Our driver didn't really speak English, so I got to practice a bit of my rusty high school Spanish.  I'm always adding Italian words when I don't think carefully about it.  And just like that, we were on our way to our hotel!


Luggage ready, fortunately it stopped raining after we arrived

EZE is a nice airport, easy to negotiate

A little gift from my daughter Elizabeth that I'm carrying in my pocket on this trip.


Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falklands - a New Adventure


Sunday, October 29

We're off on a new adventure!  We departed yesterday from the Keweenaw Peninsula in Upper Michigan, heading to the far side of the globe from where we started.  Our first stop is in Buenos Aires, South America.  This is the beginning for our expedition cruise with National Geographic and Lindblad to Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands. 

We travel on their new ship, the Endurance, which is "purpose built for polar explorations".  We'll share it with about 100 passengers for about 3 weeks, following the general course in the map pictured below.  We'll have a chance to meet penguins, albatross, seals and (hopefully) whales.  We'll see historic sites, like the grave of Sir Ernest Shackleton - of the original Endurance fame.  We'll have the chance to kayak and explore various zodiac landings with more than a dozen staff experts that include naturalists and photographers.  Should be a crazy, wild time!



This brochure from the Nat Geo site describes our trip

Our voyage and ports of call

The Endurance


We left yesterday, driving six hours from Houghton MI to Milwaukee WI, catching a flight from MKE to Houston, and then a 10 hour flight from Houston to Buenos Aires.  We've had a beautiful week in the Keweenaw - a later than typical fall color season is still underway.  Lots of golden colors from the tamaracks, birches and maples.  And the day before we left, we had a spectacular full arching rainbow over Bete Gris.  God's promise and blessings.


Quincy Mine in Hancock shines pink from the light of the sunrise on this morning's drive

Haven Falls covered in a golden carpet of fallen maple leaves

The maple trees at Keweenaw Mountain Lodge are still holding on to their leaves 

Sunlight splashes on areas of color at the Copper Harbor overlook

A spectacular rainbow on Friday evening, after a grey and drizzly day

Littlest grandson found some flowers for grandma during his nature walk yesterday.