Tuesday, August 2, 2022

Njegusi - Smoked Ham, Cheese, Woodcarving and Montenegrin Moonshine


The mountain town of Njegusi 


Thursday, July 7 - Trip Day 8

We had climbed up the slopes of Mount Lovcan via two large motor coaches, enjoying spectacular views of the Bay of Kotor and the Adriatic Sea, while causing lots of traffic snarls.  When we reached about 2700 feet, we stopped at the village of Njegusi.

Njegusi is a rural mountain village, producing famous smoked ham (proscuitto), local cheese, wildflower honey and locally distilled alcohol products.  Its population is around 200 people, all of whom were glad to see tourists back in their area after the 2 year Covid drought.



Barn and Smokehouse for Njegusi hams

Tourists are eagerly welcomed at the roadside souvenir shops

Restaurant Konoba - our stop for treats in Njegusi

Most welcoming of the guests

Tables ready for our crowd of 30 people on 2 busses!


Our first stop was at the Restaurant Konoba, where they were pleased to share samples of the smoked ham and cheese, as well as generous servings of the local wine.  We then walked down the road to tour the smoke house and learn how the ham is cured and produced.

The smoke house also had a small still for making alcoholic spirits - from roses, nettles, berries, and of course, plums.  We walked past a number of souvenir stands that were also selling local cheese and honey.  Michael and I bought ham, cheese, honey and alcohol to bring back home - we didn't want to miss any of the local highlights!



Local specialties - Njegusian prosciutto ham and local cheese

This plate of local goodness was delicious, as was the wine

Walking to the local smokehouse, at the end of the street

You have to imagine this toasty, smokey, hammy fragrance from all of these gorgeous hams

Their local still - alcohol flavored (separately) with plum, berries, roses and nettle 


My guy resting on the culvert at the end of the lane


Woodworkers gallery


This lovely man speaks no English and I have no Slavic languages, but he waved me in to come for a visit in his gallery.  It's filled with woodcarvings, and was a fun cultural experience trying to understand what he was explaining to me about the various carvings.


Examples of Montenegrin folk costumes

A unique and beautiful octopus, carved from a tree stump and roots


His collection of fire arms and munitions - from the war, as best as I understood

This couple was happy when we bought honey and whiskey from their shop

The cheese with walnuts is missing - I bought it to take home

It's for sale - maybe a mountain retreat in someone's future?

Pastoral mountain fields

Heading for the road to return - including the tunnel

Breathtaking views


The Adriatic and Bay of Kotor in evening light


Tonight's dinner was al fresco on the lido deck, with the freshing sea breezes.  We had fresh oysters from the Bay of Kotor durng our cocktail hour. The, we ate with new friends Skip and Kris and enjoyed the piano music by our musician, Mario, while we motored along to return to the  Adriatic and head to our next stop:  Albania!



Serene sunset for our outdoor dinner

The lights of the city of Tivat as we leave Montenegro

Our moon continues to wax each night - now up to halfish


Time for bed and our Moonlight Sonata




25 Turns to Climb Mount Lovcen - Spectacular Views


View of the end of Kotor Bay and the modern town of Kotor


Thursday, July 7 - Trip Day 8


We had a respite for a few hours on the Sea Cloud before heading back to the port of Kotor via our tender.  We were about to board the bus again, for a real treat.  We would be traveling up  the face of Mount Lovcen to a small village nestled at 900 meters (~2700 feet) in the Lovcen National Park.

The road has quite a reputation - its only a single lane - but allows two way traffic.  It has very minimal guard rails and no real turn outs.  If you encounter another car, one of you has to back up, to one of the 25 hairpin turns that allow you to climb the mountain.  Can you imagine - we were traveling up this 30 km drive with two 40 meter long busses!



On the bus - our chariot up Mount Lovcen

At first, easy, peasy with nice views of the bay - road stretches out on the left

The range reaches heights of 5,700 feet above Kotor Bay

The beginning of 25 hairpin turns

The Sea Cloud anchored off the port of Kotor


All these cars (and more) had to back up to let our two busses pass by

Big traffic jam - small guard rails


It was easy for us - we were passengers listening to a running comedic commentary by our Montenegran guide.  At one point, a number of cars needed to back uphill to the previous hairpin turn so that our bus (ses) could pass by.  There was a guy in a red Audi rental car who couldn't back up.  Probably one of us Americans that never learned to drive a stick shift, much less go uphill and in reverse on a mountain pass!.  

His wife got out of the car to help direct him.  Three other wives got out of their cars to help her.  No one was going anywhere, and the line of cars kept getting longer.  Finally, our bus driver got out, sat down in the driver's seat of the red Audi, and neatly spun it back up to the hairpin turn so we could break the logjam.  He re-entered our bus to a big round of applause.  No yelling or screaming or fisti-cuffs - everyone was just out for a Sunday drive on a Thursday





The big cruise ship in Kotor port is leaving


The Adriatic Sea over the Lustica Peninsula - and the "M" in the center is our original road

The views just keep getting better



Getting there! - Hairpin turn number 23

Last one - number 25 - and the beautiful Adriatic Sea to the west

Goodbye cruise ship #1 - now cruise ship #2 is moving in


An unforgettable view - so blessed to share it with each other