Dreaming Big Dreams....

Spent our last night in the Marriott; trading great farm breakfasts for tea and a few cookies...

Monday                                                                                        October 18, 2021

We're dreaming big dreams - of all the enjoyment we had on this Italian vacation - and of the travels in our future.  We were up a dawn to head to the Marco Polo airport.  The very convenient Marriott hotel has a shuttle bus that transported us and our luggage.  Checkin went without a hitch.  Yesterday, we did the required COVID test for re-entry into the US.

We waited for our flight to board in the airport lounge.  It's right on the edge of the lagoon, and in the sunrise, we could see the silhouettes of the towers of Venice and Torcello.  We flew to Istanbul - over Istria and Croatia, the Balkans and Bulgaria - to pick up our connecting flight on Turkish Air to Chicago.  A two hour flight, followed by a 10 hour flight.  Arrival in Chicago at 5:30 PM, and then ready to drive home to Middleton.

Sunrise over the Venetian Lagoon, seen from the lounge at the Marco Polo airport

On the left, the bell tower on Torcello, where we stayed; on the right, St. Mark's campanile

Goodby to the pretty, pastoral campos of Italy

Who wouldn't want a magical journey?

An hour between connecting flights in Istanbul meant no time for shopping - darn!

View out the window for much of the flight - high altitude sun halo

Most trans-Atlantic flights to and from Chicago fly over Greenland - always fascinating.

An amazing assortment of Turkish mezze preceded our dinner - baba ganoush, dolma, artichoke heart, lentils....

Love that they serve Turkish coffee, of course, on Turkish Air flights.  It's tasty!

It's always such a pleasure and privilege to travel.  Italy continues to hold my heart captive.  I hope to return again in the next few years - still more areas to explore.  And we have a number of trips in 2022 - postponed from previously scheduled travel.  I hope we're able to continue as planned.

But as much as I love the travel - it's always the best to return home and sleep in your own bed.  Amen.

Back home in Wisconsin.  So glad to be here. We missed our home and families.

Time to say goodbye

 

Sunday                                                                                                October 17, 2021

Time to say goodbye, as the signature Andrea Bocelli song "Con ti Partiro" says.  It's our last full day in Italy and we intend to soak up the atmosphere so that we can bring it home with us.  We began our day with breakfast on the terrace.  Fa fresca ma c'e sole.  It was cool, but sunny.  We carried out our trays of fresh farm cheese and focaccia bread and fennel, some sweet cakes with house made plum jelly and a big mug of cappuccino.  (Always espresso doppio for Michael.)

We were the only ones outside, but soon others followed.  It is Sunday morning and the small church on our hill chimes out the time with its melodic bells every 15 minutes.  And on the hour and half hour, we could hear all the bells, including some sounds wafting up the hill from down in Verona.  The birds were out, adding to the sweet sounds of the morning, and where it was sunny on the rocks, little lizards were peeking out.

Our last hearty farmhouse breakfast

The sounds of Verona's church bells traveled up to our terrace from the valley below.

We lingered for more than an hour - time for a second round of coffees - and soaked up the sun and the serenity.  No agenda for today.

We will leave around 3 PM to drive to Venezia to stay next to the Marco Polo Airport, as we need to be at the airport at 7 AM tomorrow for our flight home.  Originally, we were going to spend the night here - but it's a 90 minute drive from Verona to the Venice airport, and that sounded too stressful.

Sometime today we'll pack up our suitcases and make sure the souveners are safely tucked into corners with bubble wrap. Not too much this time - a pretty Murano vase and small items for the kids and grandkids.

Cortile San Mattia's outdoor terrace was a perfect place for lingering on a fall Sunday morning.

Chiesa San Mattia is located at the top of our little Via San Mattia street - about 300 meters from our agriturismo apartment.  We loved hearing the bells chiming the time and calling to mass.  Michael attended the service and went to communion this morning. It was built in 1180 on the ruins of an old Roman pagan temple.  It was enlarged and renovated in the early 1800s. The chairs outside are for COVID compliance.

Built in 1180 on the ruins of an old Roman temple, the Chiesa di San Mattia (St. Matthias).

Afternoon lounging location - for reading a writing - before packing up for  the airport.

            From the lyrics "Con ti Partiro":

Time to say goodbye

To countries I never

Saw and shared with you

Now, yes, I shall see them

I’ll go with you

Go on ships across seas

What is an agriturismo, anyway?

 

Sunday                                                                                        October 17, 2021

We love to stay in agriturismo locations when we travel to Italy and try to find them for some part of every vacation.  We've been doing so for the past 20 years, and have never been disappointed in our choices.  We do a fair amount of research to find the ones that fit our interests.

We like that it's associated with a farm, and that they offer products from their own work, including meals that feature their produce and/or meat production - and often their own wines.  The settings are rural - a recipe for peaceful reflection and good night sleeps.                                                                                                                                                                                          

Cortile San Mattia mailboxes

We've stayed in converted old stables, farm buildings and other interesting structures - all nicely updated.

The pastoral locations and being out in the countryside are part of the appeal.

Cortile San Mattia became the first agriturismo in the Verona area in the 1980s.  Here's what they say they need to achieve to be an approved agriturismo:

The Italian holiday farm law was first promulgated back in 1965.  The initial aim of these facilities was to supplement farmers' income.  Today one of the main purposes is to guarantee the protection and conservation of the rural landscape and thus combat the abandonment of the countryside.  In Veneto, each holiday farm can offer catering and hospitality services in relation to its agricultural activity according to regional guidelines.

Located on a small country road

Pretty restaurant, complete with terrace and fireplace

The breakfasts at agriturismos use their own local products - eggs, fruit and vegetables, cheese, jams...

The theme of this room appears to be chickens...

The following requirements must be met to qualify as an agriturismo:

• at least 65% of catering must be produced by the farm
• a maximum of 30% may come from other local farms or artisanal producers
• a maximum of 15% may be purchased on the free market

Corte San Mattia is a vineyard and makes 5 varieties of wine that guests can purchase to take home

They use these olive trees to produce their own olive oil

Lots of country hiking and biking available.  Here, an old overgrown farm trail.

A wall along the road

Can't beat the lovely sense of peace and relaxation, away from the hustle and bustle of the cities.

What is a holiday farm

• at least 65% must be produced by the farm (of which a maximum 15% may come from other farms or artisan companies in Veneto, provided that they are organic or PDO/PGI)
• a maximum of 30% may come from other local farms or artisan companies
• a maximum of 15% may be purchased in the free market

Nightime is the right time...

The moon is up and Verona's lights are sparkling - time to head up the hill for dinner at the restaurant

Saturday                                                                                    October 16, 2021

An enjoyably long and interesting day soaking up the culture of Verona.  But now it's time to soak up some wine, olive oil and tasty local food.  We're ready to walk up the hill to the Cortile San Mattia restaurant for dinner.

This is the pretty cobblestone road between our apartment and the restaurant of the agriturismo.

The restaurant is lit up for the evening meal, including an outdoor fireplace and standing fire pit (on the left).

An attractive decor - the rustic theme with checks and wood seems very appropriate for a "holiday farm."

Big smiles as I contemplate my wine selection,  I think I've earned an amarone red tonight.

Appetizer - potato torte with creamy gorgonzola sauce and sprouts and shredded radicchio.

Slow cooked pork ribs with sweet and sour swiss chard

Mushroom and root vegetable strudel, with tagglio cheese sauce and roasted pumpkin

A house - made amaro after dinner.  Tasted great - like the herbs of the fields.

Back home to our apartment

Moon's almost full; on its right are Jupiter and Mars

Goodnight and sleep tight.